Photo above: Thessaloniki: the beautiful "co-capital" of Greece--a big city with a small town feel, full of Ancient, Byzantine, Ottoman & Jewish history, famous for its cuisine and eateries and amazing surrounding areas to visit. Here is the podcast I did about Thessaloniki for Armature Traveler with many links to more information about what we discuss in the podcast.
There are many Saint days throughout the year and most Greeks are named for these saints--actually the tradition is that you are named after your paternal grandfather or grandmother, who sometime in the distant past was named after a saint. One's saint days are special days where all who know you wish you many years--almost like a birthday, with presents from family and the person who is celebrating usually treats friends and family to dinner or drinks. The Saints, themselves are very prominent in Greek culture. They are venerated and worshipped, The pious ask favors and miracles are granted. "Tamata" --votive offerings or promises of actions are given to saints or if they are objects, left beside icons in exchange for miracles granted or requests made by the faithful. One of the most prominent saints is St. Demetrios, who is celebrated on October 26. This is a special day all over Greece, but especially for those who have the name Demetri or Demetra and for the co-capital, the 2nd largest city in Greece as well as during the years of Byzantium, the lovely Thessaloniki, whose patron saint and protector is St. Demetrios of Thessaloniki. The celebration usually involves processions and parades headed by priests holding the icon of St, Demetrios. The city is lit up for 3 nights to include the national holiday "Oxi" (No) Day of October 28. Here is an article with a short history of the saint--and here is another one with more history from a fellow philhellene blogger.
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Tinos, the very humble and amazing neighboring island to cosmopolitan Mykonos, is one of my favorite islands. Among Greeks, it is mostly known for Panagia Evangelistria, a 190-year-old Greek Orthodox church that was built in honor of the Virgin Mary with a miracle working icon. Pilgrims flock there year round, but especially when the church celebrates Dormition of the Virgin on August 15. In fact, there is a red carpet that runs from the port up along the side of the town streets to the church at the top of the town. The faithful, asking favors or forgiveness, will climb from the port to church on their knees, carrying various offerings for the Virgin (all year, but especially around August 15)
However, the island offers so much more than the miracle working church. It is blessed with underground springs and has spots with lush plane trees, offering precious shade from the hot sun in summer. It has so much marble that roads, street signs, air vents in homes and just about everything is made from marble--much easier to find than wood on this island! Its more than 40 villages are each unique and beautiful, and the lovely countryside with iconic "peristeronas" or dovecotes (homes for doves and pigeons). And the food is amazing--everywhere we went, each dish was absolutely delicious, and home-made, of course! When we were there in July, 2019, the winds were so strong (for 10 days straight!) that we could not go to any beach, but with the wealth of villages, and Museum of Marble Art in Pirgi, Tinos, where there is also a famous Greek Marble sculpting school, we found plenty to do (and eat!) on this truly amazing island. Here is more about Tinos--and another site---and a Travel & Leisure article. Donoussa is a lovely, quiet island with amazing sandy beaches and crystal sea--small enough to explore by foot, but also with boat and bus service to the beaches as well. It is a perfect island to get away from it all and relax, as long as you are free spirited and don't mind the distinctive hippy vibe the island is famous for.
Every town in Greece has a main church dedicated to a saint or important holy day --and when that day is celebrated (every saint and important day has a celebration day according to the Orthodox calendar), there is a festival. In Donoussa, the celebration is September 14 every year--the celebration of Stavros, or the cross, as the main church and town are dedicated to the Stavro (and anyone whose name is Stavros or Stavroula also celebrate). It is amazing to experience a "panagyri" or festival. The festival always starts at the church, but then continues in the courtyard for food and then to the square for dancing until the early morning hours! In Donoussa, the traditional dish of goat in tomato sauce with potatoes was served to all present in the courtyard (paid for by the church and donations)--and then continued in the square next to the sea with live music by Nikos Oikonomidis, a very famous musician in Greece who plays traditional island violin music. Here he is from last week's celebration. Milos, Kimolos and uninhabited Polyaigos are a set of volcanic islands in the Western Cyclades (photos above from my visit to Milos in 2017). These islands are characterized by their otherworldly seascapes and amazingly crystal seas. Milos has a long history that begins before the Bronze Age--and was a major source of obsidian in ancient times. It is where the famous Venus de Milo (now in the Louve) was found and in 416 BC, Milos was infamously punished (massacred) by Athens for not paying tribute. It is an island rich in minerals (center photo from the old sulfur mines). As the winds can get quite strong on these islands, the best time to visit is in June to early July. Sometimes the Meltemi winds (that can ruin beach holidays on the islands) have finished by late August and early September. Here is more on Milos and here. And here about Kimolos and Polyaigos
The Cyclades: white washed houses, blue domed churches, narrow allies with bright bougainvillea, dry & wind swept landscapes in sandy shades with low vegetation, deep blue skies that rise to the heavens and crystal seas in all shades of blue --these are the islands that dominate Instagram posts and the minds of most tourists. They include the most popular islands: Mykonos, Santorini, Paros, Naxos and Milos. However, they are much more than just those islands. The Cyclades got their name in ancient times because they are the islands that form a circle (cyclos-- κυκλος) around the most sacred of all islands, Delos where the twin gods, Artemis and Apollo were born. They consist of 39 islands, of which 24 are inhabited--most even before the bronze age. Each island is unique, but all share the same colors and topography. As they are quite dry and prone to high winds, vegetation is sparse and before tourism, the main industry was marble and mineral mining. Traditional Cycladic cuisine reflects the meagre vegetation in its simplicity, using very few ingredients with an abundance of seafood dishes, goat and legumes, especially "fava" or yellow split pea puree.
Because the winds can be unpredictable and also quite strong at times, the best time to visit is in June until the beginning of July, and early September. This past summer, the wind started blowing around July 3 and didn't stop the whole month! However, some islands are more protected than others. I have been to 15 Cyclades so far and this summer I visited the small Cyclades --Donoussa, Schinousa and Iraklia, where there was a continual breeze but not too windy to prohibit swimming. (photos from Milos, Donoussa and Amorgos). Here is more information about the Cyclades. Crete has it all--mountains, gorges, beaches, lovely Venetian towns, bronze age Minoan cities, classical Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman sites, fabulous food, villages and it's own very distinct music, dancing, culture and color. It is the biggest island in Greece--I have been three times, a total of 30 days approximately and I have only seen a fraction. During the summer, the northern part of the island--with the picturesque towns of Venetian influence: the capital, Herakleion, Rethymno and Chania to the west, Sitia and Agios Nikolaos to the east and lovely beaches situated all along in between-- is easily accessible with great roads, thus causing it to be quite touristy and crowded. Crete has a large permanent population and major universities in Herakleion and Chania, so whenever one visits, it is always lively --and in my opinion, the best time to visit northern Crete is anytime but summer. Here is a lovely video of Crete
However, southern Crete is completely different. There is no coastal road connecting villages in the south (except for a small section of south eastern Crete) because there are so many mountains and gorges in the center of the island that building a straight road from town to town is impossible and one must go through the mountains in the north to get to the next town in the south. Thus in summer, southern Crete is very much off the beaten track and perfect for those who want to enjoy swimming, hiking, delicious food and beautiful and quiet destinations at extremely reasonable prices. There is a ferry connecting the south western towns, so one does not need to drive up and down mountains to get from one place to the other. And (Ta) Sfakia or Hora Sfakion--where this recipe originates, is probably the most famous town in Southern Crete. It is well know for its fierce population (towards invaders--not tourists!). Sfakia and the Mani region of the Peloponnese are two regions that were never completely occupied because the inhabitants fought so viciously that it wasn't worth the trouble. In fact, there is speculation that the name derives from the verb, sfazo --to slay. Of course, nowadays they are only slaying fresh fish and perhaps wild boar in the winter! Here is a video of Sfakia in the summer The region of Epirus is located in the north eastern corner of Greece with Albania to the north and Corfu to the west. There are stunning mountains, as well as a lush coastline with beaches that look more Caribbean than Greek--and two major ancient sites. Mountain lovers should not miss visiting the Pindos mountains if on a trip to Greece. Vikos gorge and the lovely villages in Zagorohoria offer amazing hikes, delicious home made mountain cuisine, extremely reasonable prices and an unquestionable authentic Greek experience that will be unforgettable. The Pindos mountain chain, "the backbone of Greece", is actually an extension of the Dinaric Alps. It runs from Albania down through Epirus borders the Thessalian plain and continues until the Corinthian Gulf. Sea lovers should not miss visiting the coast of Epirus, which is across from Corfu and the other Ionian Islands to the west. The lovely seaside town of Preveza connects by bridge to the lush island of Lefkada. Up the coast is the colorfully charming Parga and Syvota with its white sandy beaches. And also those who are fascinated by ancient mysticism: Dodoni was a sanctuary dedicated to Zeus and the home of the most ancient Greek oracle. It was a place of great spirituality and many would come from all over the ancient world to consult this oracle as well as the Necromanteion. The Necromanteion is by the Acheron River and was where Odysseus spoke to the spirit of Achilles on his way back to Ithaca.
. The Sporades are a group of 4 islands (Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonnisos and Skyros) and quite a few smaller, uninhabited islands not far from the east coast of mid-mainland Greece and connects via ferry through Volos and Agios Costantinos. Skiathos also has an airport.
Skiathos is the most well-known of these islands and has at least 30 sandy beaches around the island. It is a gorgeous island, lush with green and vegetation, much like Mt. Pelion just across the sea and has the advantage of natural shade on the beach--and almost always a calm sea, being protected from northern winds by Mt. Pelion on the mainland, which makes it ideal for those who love swimming or sailing. In fact, out of the 37 islands and many mainland destinations I have visited, I can say with confidence that the best beaches for swimming are without a doubt on Skiathos, as well as the calmest water for sea chartering. Here is more on the island. I was fortunate to live there from June 1995-September 1996 and have my picture perfect wedding in the courtyard of the 17th century monastery, Panagia Kounistria (the patron saint of Skiathos). It was on Skiathos that I greatly expanded my knowledge of Greek cooking with kyria Katina from whom we rented a house next to her amazing restaurant "Anatoli" (East). In general, Skiathos has phenomenal food if you know the right restaurants. Here is an article about traditional dishes and recommended restaurants Although Skiathos, and mainly Skopelos, gained fame from the filming of "Momma Mia", the islands are not nearly as well known in the US as the drier and much windier Cyclades (the group of islands containing Mykonos, Santorini, Naxos, Paros, Milos, etc.). Skiathos is, however, a popular destination for Europeans, so it can get quite busy in the summer from mid-July to early September, but as there are so many beaches and walking paths, one can always find a quiet spot even at the height of the tourist season. Here is another article with great photos and cultural information. Greeks love feasts and have one whenever possible and tomorrow ranks among the most important of the year! It is “Kathara- or Kathari- Deftera,” Greek for Clean Monday, commencing the 40-day period of the Great Lent for the Eastern Orthodox Church before the most important holiday for them, Easter (April 24 this year). From tomorrow until Holy Saturday at midnight it will be “Sarakosti" or the 40 day fast. On Clean Monday, the table is filled with vegan dishes (and shellfish & mollusks are allowed because they do not have red blood (but not fish)--but absolutely no meat or any products from animals that have red blood, which also includes eggs and dairy). The pious will keep the fast for the entire period, but most Greeks will definitely fast Holy Week (and celebrate with plenty of lamb on Easter) and many will fast all of next week (the first week of Lent)--they will certainly have many delicious leftovers from Clean Monday. Also, kite flying is a tradition on this day as well! Culinary Delights of Clean Monday—"Ta Koulouma" Eating meat, eggs and dairy products is traditionally forbidden to Orthodox Christians throughout Lent, with fish being eaten only on the major feast day of the Annunciation (or Euangelisomos in Greek) on March 25. The consumption of shellfish and mollusks though, is permitted in Greek Orthodox Churches, thus creating the tradition of eating elaborate dishes based on seafood, like cuttlefish, octopus and different shellfish, like shrimp and mussels. Taramosalata, a traditional dip made of the salted and cured roe from carp or cod, mixed with olive oil, lemon juice and bread crumbs, called is one of the dishes served on Clean Monday. It is delicious as a spread on the “lagana,” a special kind of unleavened flatbread, baked only on that day and topped with sesame seeds. Accompanying these dishes are also black-eyed peas or just common baked beans, grape-leaf wrapped rice balls called “dolma” and of course some Greek wine or tsipouro—a type of Greek grappa. As for dessert, “halva” is served, which is made of tahini, a sesame paste, and sugar, often combined by nuts or chocolate and baked in a square or cylindrical shape and also Politiki Halva (from Asia Minor), which is made of semolina, almonds, syrup and cinnamon. Traditions of Clean Monday
Clean Monday, however, is not only associated with eating fasting products, but also many traditions such as kite flying. Young people and adults organize excursions to open areas, so as to fill the skies with their kites. Religious significance of Kathera Deftera: The feast begins on the first day of the 7th week before the Orthodox Easter Sunday. Liturgically though, Clean Monday and thus Lent itself begins on the preceding Sunday night, at a special service, in which all present will bow down before one another and ask for forgiveness. In this way, the faithful begin the Great Lent with a clean conscience, forgiveness and renewed Christian love. The day of Clean Monday is sometimes called “Ash Monday,” by analogy to “Ash Wednesday,” the day during which Lent for the Western Christianity begins. Clean Monday also puts an end to the preceding Carnival celebrations, inviting all Orthodox Christians to leave behind the "sinful" attitudes associated with Carnival festivities and non-fasting foods, which were largely consumed during the three weeks of the Carnival. December 6, is the celebration of Saint Nicholas, which is not connected with Santa Claus in Greece (St. Basil is the Greek Santa Claus). In addition to being the name day of Nicholas, Nick, Nichol, Niki, and all other derivatives (to whom you should say "chronia polla"), St. Nicholas is the patron saint of sailors and travelers. Greece has for Millenia been a seafaring country and has the largest shipping industry of any other nation (here is the source for that!) and thus, St. Nicholas is a very prominent saint for Greeks. Small white chapels are often found along the coastline, so that votives can be dedicated and candles lit for sailors or other travelers that need protection. Icons of the saint are found on Greek vessels of all sizes. The Greek Navy has a special celebration at the Naval Academy every December 6. And traditionally, the first holiday decoration is a model ship which will light up town squares and a smaller version in homes (which always should face inward to bring sailors & travelers home) throughout the holiday season (Dec. 6-Jan 7). The Christmas tree is a recent western import--as is Santa on December 25. Traditionally St. Basil is the gift giver on January 1. Here is more on St. Nicholas. And here is more on how St. Nicholas became Santa in the west.
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